Check these first

• Thermostat. Make sure it's set to Cool and the fan is set to Auto. With the fan on On, it blows air even when the AC isn't cooling, which feels warm.
• Filter. A clogged filter chokes airflow and can cause the indoor coil to freeze. Replace it if it's gray.
• Breakers. The outdoor unit and the indoor unit often have separate breakers. If one tripped, reset it once. If it trips again, leave it off and call.
• Outdoor unit. Is the fan spinning? Is the coil packed with cottonwood fluff, grass, or leaves? Turn the power off and gently rinse the coil from the inside out with a hose. No pressure washers.
• Outdoor disconnect switch. Many outdoor units have a shutoff switch mounted nearby. Make sure it's on.

Ice on the lines? Shut it off

Frost or ice on the copper lines or the indoor coil means something is wrong with airflow or refrigerant. Turn the cooling off, set the fan to On to help it thaw, and call. Running a frozen system can damage the compressor.

Problems that need a technician

• Low refrigerant. An AC doesn't use up refrigerant. If it's low, there's a leak, and adding refrigerant without fixing the leak only buys time.
• Failed capacitor. The outdoor unit hums but the fan or compressor won't start. Capacitors store a dangerous charge, so leave this one to a pro.
• Clogged condensate drain. Many systems have a safety switch that shuts off cooling when the drain backs up. Water around the indoor unit is a clue.
• Compressor problems. The unit runs but never cools, or it trips the breaker when it starts.

Don't keep resetting a breaker that trips. That's a sign of an electrical or compressor problem, not a switch problem.

Preventing it next summer

Most of these problems show up at a spring cooling inspection before they leave you without AC. See what a tune-up includes.

What decides how long a furnace lasts

Two furnaces installed the same year can wear out a decade apart. The difference usually comes down to a few things.

• Maintenance. A clogged filter makes the blower work harder and lets the furnace run hot. A yearly fall inspection catches worn parts before they take out something expensive.
• Sizing and installation. An oversized furnace heats the house too fast, shuts off, and starts again a few minutes later. That short cycling wears out parts early.
• How hard it works. Illinois heating seasons are long. A furnace here puts in far more hours each year than one in a mild climate.

Signs your furnace is near the end

• It's 15 years old or older
• You've needed more than one repair in a single heating season
• Gas bills are climbing even though your usage hasn't changed
• Some rooms stay cold no matter where the thermostat is set
• The burner flame is yellow or flickering instead of steady blue, or you see soot around the furnace
• New banging, rumbling, or squealing sounds

A yellow flame or soot can point to a combustion problem. Shut the furnace off and call. If you smell gas, leave the house and call 911 or your gas utility from outside.

Repair or replace?

A common rule of thumb: multiply the furnace's age by the repair price. If the result is over $5,000, get a replacement price before you approve the repair. A 16-year-old furnace with a $350 repair comes out to $5,600, so it's worth comparing. Our repair or replace guide walks through it in more detail.

Some findings settle the question on their own. A cracked heat exchanger can leak carbon monoxide into the house, and on an older furnace that almost always means replacement.

How to get more years out of yours

• Check the filter monthly during winter and change it when it looks gray. Most need changing every 1 to 3 months.
• Book an inspection every fall, before the first cold snap.
• Keep supply vents and return grilles open and clear of furniture.
• Keep storage boxes, laundry, and paint cans away from the furnace.

Make sure there's a working carbon monoxide alarm within 15 feet of every bedroom. Illinois law requires them in most homes with a gas appliance or an attached garage, and they matter most as a furnace ages.

Start with the $5,000 rule

Multiply the age of the equipment by the price of the repair.

• Under $5,000: repairing is usually the better value.
• Over $5,000: get a replacement price and compare before you decide.

For example, a 12-year-old furnace with a $450 repair comes to $5,400. That doesn't mean you must replace it. It means the replacement price deserves a look.

When repair is the clear choice

If the system is under about 10 years old and the problem is a single worn part, repair it. Common examples:

• Igniter or flame sensor on a furnace
• Capacitor or contactor on an AC
• Blower motor
• Clogged condensate drain or a tripped safety switch
• Thermostat problems

When replacement makes more sense

• Cracked heat exchanger. It can leak carbon monoxide, and on an older furnace the repair rarely makes sense.
• Failed compressor on an older AC. The compressor is the most expensive part of the system.
• An old AC that uses R-22 refrigerant. R-22 is no longer produced in the U.S., so recharging a leaking system gets more expensive every year.
• Repeated breakdowns. Two or three repairs in a couple of seasons usually means more are coming.
• High bills and uneven comfort. A new, properly sized system can fix both.

Replacing just the AC or just the furnace

Air conditioners and furnaces share the blower and ductwork, and the AC's indoor coil sits on top of the furnace. Newer AC systems also use different refrigerants than older ones, so a new outdoor unit usually needs a matching new indoor coil. If both pieces are close in age, replacing them together often costs less than two separate jobs a few years apart.

It's also the right time to consider a heat pump, which handles cooling and much of the heating in one system.

How we price it

When a system could go either way, we write up the repair price and the replacement price side by side, along with the age and condition of what you have. You choose. Financing is available on replacements.

The two-minute test

1. Make sure the pump is plugged in. If it's on a GFCI outlet, check that the outlet hasn't tripped.
2. Slowly pour a 5-gallon bucket of water into the pit.
3. Watch the float rise and listen for the pump to start.
4. The water should drain quickly and the pump should shut off on its own.
5. Go outside and confirm water is coming out of the discharge line.

Do this every few months, and always before spring storm season.

Signs your sump pump is failing

• It doesn't start, or it hums without pumping
• It runs constantly, even in dry weather
• It turns on and off every few seconds
• Grinding or rattling noises
• Visible rust or a float that sticks
• The pump is 7 years old or older

Do you need a battery backup?

The heaviest storms are also the most likely to knock out power, and a regular sump pump stops working when the power goes out. A battery backup pump sits in the same pit and takes over during an outage or if the main pump fails. For a finished basement or anything valuable stored downstairs, it's usually worth it.

Some homes can use a water-powered backup instead, which runs on city water pressure. It doesn't need a battery, but it uses water while it runs and doesn't work on well water.

Don't forget the discharge line

• It should empty well away from the foundation, so water doesn't cycle back into the pit
• Keep the outlet clear of leaves, dirt, and snow
• In winter, a frozen line can stop the pump from draining. Ask about a freeze guard fitting.

Other ways to keep water out

• Point downspouts at least 4 to 6 feet away from the house
• Clean gutters in spring and fall
• Keep window wells clear and covered

Water rising in the pit and the pump is silent during a storm? Call right away. Keep electrical cords and extension cords out of standing water.

How each one works

A tank water heater keeps 40 to 75 gallons hot and ready. When it runs out, you wait while it reheats. A tankless unit heats water only as it flows through, so it doesn't run out, but it can only heat so many gallons per minute.

Side by side

The flow rate question

A tankless unit is rated in gallons per minute. Two showers plus a dishwasher can ask for more than one unit can deliver. Winter makes it harder: incoming water in Illinois gets cold, so the heater has to raise the temperature further and delivers fewer gallons per minute. Large households sometimes need a larger unit or two units.

A tank is usually the better fit when

• You want the lowest upfront cost
• Several fixtures often run hot water at the same time
• Your current tank is failing and you need a quick, direct swap

Tankless is usually the better fit when

• You run out of hot water with your current tank
• You plan to stay in the house long enough to benefit from the longer lifespan
• Basement or closet space matters, for example in a finished basement

Water pooling at the base of a tank usually means the tank itself is failing. Turn off the cold water valve on top and the gas or power to the unit, then call.

Why two visits a year

Your AC and furnace work in opposite seasons, and each should be checked just before its busy season starts. Spring for cooling, fall for heating. Problems found then get fixed on your schedule instead of during a heat wave or cold snap, when every HVAC company is booked out.

The spring cooling visit

• Clean and inspect the outdoor condenser coil
• Check refrigerant levels and pressures
• Clear the condensate drain line
• Test capacitors, contactors, and wiring
• Measure airflow and the temperature drop across the coil
• Replace a standard filter

The fall heating visit

• Inspect the burners and flame
• Check the heat exchanger for cracks
• Test the igniter, flame sensor, and safety controls
• Carbon monoxide check at the furnace
• Inspect the flue and venting
• Replace a standard filter

Be wary of a "tune-up" that takes 15 minutes and ends with a sales pitch. Ask for the written checklist. You should see readings, not just checkmarks.

Does maintenance protect my warranty?

Many equipment manufacturers ask for proof of regular professional maintenance before they'll cover a warranty claim. Keep the records from every visit, or let us keep them for you.

What you can do between visits

• Check the filter monthly during heavy-use seasons
• Keep 2 feet of clear space around the outdoor unit. Trim plants and clear leaves and grass clippings.
• Keep supply vents and return grilles open
• Test carbon monoxide and smoke alarms

Our maintenance plans put both visits on the calendar and include priority scheduling if something breaks.